Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Up Close and Personal with Indie Designer--Carrie Russell of "With Love Lingerie"


 Sexy, Bold, Beautiful, Feminine

All this and more can be said about Carrie Russell, and her line of lingerie "With Love Lingerie".  Carrie started her business in 2009, and has fast become an Indie designer to watch for.  She has had fashion shows at Fashion Arts Toronto (FAT), as well as trunk shows, and features in magazines such as Glow and Flare....I'm sure this is only the beginning.  I can't wait to see what she has in store next.  Now for some personal questions......

1.  How old were you when you first got interested in lingerie???
I started to love lingerie from a young age.  I remember getting a bra and pantie set in a Barbie outfit package along with a dress, shoes and purse...the lingerie to me was the best part. Haha.  From there I just really loved all things lacy and pretty, I remember being mesmerized by Cindy Lauper in her vintage strapless bustiers and tutus in her music videos.  I started collecting vintage lingerie in my teens at local charity shops and estate sales. 


2.  Why did you start your own line???? Was it scary? What kind of risks were involved in going on your own?  
I started the line on my own in 2009 after leaving a production manager job for a cocktail dress designer.  It was terrifying and still is.  Obviously my biggest fear was finances and I'm fortunate to have a wonderful life partner who understands the struggle and works with me to formulate a strategic plan each year to make sure I reach my design and financial goals with the business.  

3.  Were people supportive of your dream/ideas?? Did you have to overcome discouragement/disillusionment?
I still have people who don't really understand what I do, they ask me if I could hem their pants or make a curtain for them which is not beneath me at all but just not what I do with my business.  My husband is very supportive though and often is the first to defend me to other family members when they are shocked that my designs are carried in many retail locations and a department store.  My biggest pet peeve is when I'm out socializing and somebody starts in on what I should design and sell...I'm always open to feedback but offering suggestions without even knowing my brand and in a non-work setting drives me crazy.  I'm polite but try to steer the conversation in a different direction.

4.  Do you design items just for yourself, that you don't sell???  
Yes I make any cocktail dresses that I have to wear to fashion events, and I often make things for my home and even boxer briefs for my husband.  But the boxer briefs might be something I start selling soon as I've had many clients request them.  

5.  Do you do any custom work for sizes that are not in your current business model?
My bread and butter is custom work.  I usually have at least 10 commissions on the go of either custom sizing or custom designs for clients.  As for sizing, I will make any of my pieces in any size and at least 1/4 of my sales online are for clients who have measurements outside my posted size charts. 
6.  Have you ever/do you plan on making any larger cup sizes...for those us that can't wear bralettes????  
 I used to make an underwire bra and it was wholesaled to a few retail shops however, as a one woman army with a small studio I found trying to keep all the sizes of all the bra wires very costly.  By the time I worked out the pricing with materials and my labour the bra priced out of what people were willing to invest in an indie designer's underwire bra.  However, I do make the bra for clients that request it and lately have found a better supplier for the materials so am toying with bringing the Beatrice bra back .

7.  What is your FAVORITE item you have created??? can you share a picture, or sketch.  What do you love about it. My favorite piece I created was for Flare magazine and Matel.  It was a dress made out of 1200 bra straps and I had to make one for a runway show and one for a Barbie!  I was like a kid on Christmas when Matel couriered a boxed Barbie to my front door!  The dress was photographed for Flare and it was so exciting to see one of my biggest design muses wearing my creation.
barbie dress on natalie brown.jpg
flare barbie feature.jpg
8.  Do the items change for you, during the process of creating-photography-modeling??? 
Yes I've been fortunate to have connected to many super talented and recognized photographer and models.  Often they inspire me to create pieces based on concepts we discuss.  I have learned that less is more as my goal is to have the woman to wear the lingerie not the other way around.  In a photo the lingerie should add to the image rather than command it.  

9.  Are there any certain styles that you refuse to design???  Not really, I make many pieces for private clients that I'm sure some designers would shrink away from or feel uncomfortable designing or conversing about.  But I'm never embarrassed by a request, especially from a long time client.  The only time I'd not make a certain piece is if I don't have the capability or expertise to do properly.  Men often request custom pieces and I'm happy to work on the garments.   I have refused commissions based on the customer using disrespectful language when describing their request, but that is less about the garments and more about the design relationship or dynamic that made me back away.  

10.  What is the main goal you want to achieve for someone when they buy your items???  Sexy? confident? beautiful??
 I want the lingerie to be a gateway for women to be comfortable in their own skin.  Ideally I want my pieces to frame and highlight what a woman already loves about herself.  Typically my clients are from 30 and up, they are confident and beautiful and appreciate having lingerie that compliments their personality and best assets. 



11.  How important is the 'feel' of a garment to a buyer...more important than it's looks???  
Feel and look really do go hand in hand.  I have learned not to force a fabric into a silhouette that isn't suitable.  A silk charmeuse won't work for a waist cincher and though would have a nice hand, would compromise the look of the design and the comfort of wearing it.  I tend to like to work with fabrics with a very soft hand, I enjoy drape, sheer and soft to the touch fabrics and my designs reflect that.  

12.  Are clients more demanding in regards to fit with custom, or indie made garments then they are with RTW??? (I find I'm a lot pickier with items I've made then bought)
 I think clients no are more savvy than ever with their knowledge of garments and fit.  Being a designer for both a large rtw company and now my own line I feel all clients expect quality and fit regardless of the size of your business.

13.  What is the best/worst aspects of working for yourself? 
 Wearing all the hats can be very tiring.  Sewing production all day, spending the early evening doing admin and then heading off to do a pop up shop in the evening really takes it out of me some days. However, the best part is seeing your hard work pay off and having no limits on your professional and personal growth.  



14.  What current trends do you see in the marketplace?
I am finally seeing lingerie be recognized as part of the fashion industry.  I'm happy that many of my retailers are catering to a marketplace that wants to see lingerie hanging above the newest cocktail dress styles or jewelry collection.  Many of my newest stockists are more like fashion general stores and it is exciting to see that market spurring this trend on and hope it is here to stay.

15.  Where do you see yourself/business in 5/10 years.  Do you hope to expand or keep to the business model you have now? 
I do want to keep my business model very similar.  My goal is to move to an offsite studio space with a part-time seamstress for backup. I'd ideally like a more European atelier model where by appointment, people can shop my collection but mainly my space would be for the creation of the lingerie rather than a full boutique.  I never want to be far from the sewing machine as the creation of the lingerie is my favorite part.  I identify as a maker rather than a business mogul.  I'm far from a mogul! haha

16.  Where do you get your inspirations for each season??? Can you give us any ideas,hints, or previews to your fall line?? 
I draw inspiration from music, art, conversation, nature, really it all collides and melts together and out of it comes my sketching session where I concept a new collection.  For holiday I'll still be presenting Mercy that was released earlier this year, but after that I'll be working on a capsule collection and you'll be seeing a lot of red tones, I just love red!

17.  Have you ever considered selling your patterns for home sewers like myself????  
I'm not against selling my patterns but the work that goes into digitizing them (I work mostly manually) and preparing them properly would mean too many things to juggle.  I know there are quality lingerie patterns out there on Etsy and online so I usually refer sewists that way.  
I do teach workshops and classes regularly at Sew Be It in Toronto and even host some booze and bralette sew alongs in Toronto and Hamilton pubs now and again.  

18.  How do you feel your background/upbringing influences your choices??? do you feel more restrained because of it, or do you rebel against them? I feel that my upbringing taught me to listen to my heart and that you have to be responsible for your own joy, no book can show you these things.  I'm inspired to bring the sensual, the fun, and the beautiful to people's lives one stitch at a time.
 http://www.withlovelingeriexoxo.com/
Thank you very much Carrie for taking the time to share with all of us. Come back on Friday to see the generous offer from With Love Lingerie.  Her site is full of beautiful bra's and panties, you will be tempted to treat yourself!!!!
Make sure to follow her With Love Lingerie FB page as wall as her Instagram #withlove_lingerie



Scroll down to the Tuesday section below to find out who else is presenting today, and don't forget to click the Orange Craftsy button to win!!!


________________________________________________________________

 Giveaways

Click the image below now for a chance to win a bundle of 3 Craftsy classes (your choice):

http://shrsl.com/?dwxk
Stay with us through to the end of the tour for a chance to win additional prizes:
  • complete kits to make your own bra,
  • bra- and swimsuit-making classes,
  • fabric, and more ...

Tour Schedule Itinerary

Follow the magical tour to see what we all have under our clothes

 

// Please note that none of these post links are available before the scheduled date. If you click on one too early, you will get an Error 404: Page not found. You know about those, right? //
♥
Sunday, September 11
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Monday, September 12
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Tuesday, September 13
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Wednesday, September 14
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Thursday, September 15
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Friday, September 16
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Saturday, September 17
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Sunday, September 18
Whoohoo! It's giveaway day today!
♥
Monday, September 19
Have you entered the giveaways yet? Today's your last chance.
♥
Tuesday, September 20
Giveaway winners announced on all the blogs:
♥
After September 20
  • Come back to visit all the blogs for followup posts. It's always fun!
  • Craftsy class discounts expire at midnight Sept. 30
♥

 

Sunday, September 11, 2016

Canada Cups-Tour Schedule and Give away info!!!

If your favorite part of the day is taking off your bra,
Then this blog hop is for you.


Tired of bands that ride up?

Straps that slip off?

Underwires attacking your ribcage?

Paying a fortune to find a comfortable bra?

You are a not alone.  Bra's are one of the hardest things to shop for, right up there with swimsuits and finding the perfect jeans.

You can join the thousands that have given up on Ready to Wear bras, and are learning to make their own.  Once you get a basic pattern that fits, you can learn how to turn that bra into a demi cup, foam cup, balconette, learn to add Gothic arches, keyholes, and all kinds of different straps, and lengths.  Just follow this Canada Cups blog hop for all the information you need, classes, where to buy supplies and how to get help.  The schedule is listed below.  Come back here on Tuesday and Wednesday to read my updates. 

My bra making journey started last summer.  I have always been 'blessed' and have had trouble finding bra's that fit.  I went to some boutique stores and couldn't bring myself to pay $130+ for a bra that wasn't that pretty.  I was tired of wearing boring bras, and needed something to fit my frame.  I have broad shoulders, a flared ribcage, narrow back and large breasts.....it's really a lot to ask out of a bra.  BUT that is where the magic of pattern drafting comes in.  You can adjust each area to fit your own needs.   I am so happy to have started on this journey.  I was able to meet the Fairy Bra Mother Beverly Johnson in her own shop last summer.  She gave me a proper fitting and let me try on her sample bras, if you're in Southern Ontario it's a great place to start your journey of making your own Lingerie!

  
What is The Canada Cups relay?????  It is a blog hop, sponsored by Craftsy and includes 14 amazing women from all across Canada.  We were contacted several months ago about being involved, and I must say I was super excited and extremely nervous about the prospect.  It has been a wonderful experience, and I've made some great new friends, and learned so much more about blogging along the way.

Over the course of this week there will be several posts each day by different ladies.  Make sure to read all of them, and follow them because there is going to be a lot of helpful information.....and some great prizes and discounts, so follow the blog hop, and make your own bra or lingerie.

We have some newbies sewing their very first bras, some experts, some like me who have made a few, and also our fearless instructor Beverly.  Please go to her blog right now to read more about this Tour and some lovely bio's on the ladies involved,  Canada Cups Cross Your Heart Relay Opening Day.  We will be interviewing several others in the Bra or Lingerie field. From suppliers, teachers to designers with their own lovely lines......


Check back with me on Tuesday for my interview with Carrie Russel of "With Love Lingerie" & Wednesday to find out more about the class I was given, and the bra I made!!!!  I look forward to seeing you around, I hope you take advantage of this wonderful information, and giveaways.


 _____________________

 Giveaways

Click the image below now for a chance to win a bundle of 3 Craftsy classes (your choice):
craftsy_final_circle_logo
Stay with us through to the end of the tour for a chance to win additional prizes:
  • complete kits to make your own bra,
  • bra- and swimsuit-making classes,
  • fabric, and more ...

Tour Schedule Itinerary

Follow the magical tour to see what we all have under our clothes

Canada Cups Logo Draft // Please note that none of these post links are available before the scheduled date. If you click on one too early, you will get an Error 404: Page not found. You know about those, right? //
♥
Sunday, September 11
♥
Monday, September 12
♥
Tuesday, September 13
♥
Wednesday, September 14
♥
Thursday, September 15
♥
Friday, September 16
♥
Saturday, September 17
♥
Sunday, September 18
Whoohoo! It's giveaway day today!
♥
Monday, September 19
Have you entered the giveaways yet? Today's your last chance.
♥
Tuesday, September 20
Giveaway winners announced on all the blogs:
♥
After September 20
  • Come back to visit all the blogs for followup posts. It's always fun!
  • Craftsy class discounts expire at midnight Sept. 30
♥

 

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Eveylyn Jane Reversible Skirt --- Pattern Review.

If you're looking for a cute skirt, that is super fast to sew together, Check out the Evelyn Jane Reversible Skirt Pattern.   This is a great pattern for beginners, it is very easy, and has wonderful step by step photo instructions. 


One of my favorite features is the flat front, elastic back.  I love an easy elastic skirt, really grows with your child, but I find that sometimes full elastic, if there is no drop waist, looks a bit full or young.  The flat front is the perfect solution and gives a more grown up look to any skirt or pant.


The best part is that you get TWO skirts in one.  Since it's reversible, all of your seams are inside, and completely hidden, so no need to use a serger, or zigzag.  It comes together very quickly, even if you add the contrast band at the bottom. 


On my next one I want to add some piping or ricrac to change it up a bit.   I find it's a great way to make a holiday skirt, that can still be warn year round.  Pop on over to Heidi's page today and check out this and other patterns.  Her Cecily Rose dress is one of my absolute favorite patterns.  Pollywoggles Patterns


Saturday, August 20, 2016

Tic-Tac-Toe Mini Quilt Set.



Sewing items for boys has always put me at a loss.  It's hard for me to come up with new ideas, and keep a stock of cute fabric around that they would like.  My friend Reece over at Happy Okapi posted this idea a few days ago.  I thought they were so cute, and would be fun.   (Check out her blog to find out more about how she made them, and where she got that adorable pirate fabric.)



I made the one side with the scrap of Paw Patrol fabric i had left, and the other side with the StarWars for his big brother.  Now they can play tic-tac-toe, and always have their own sides.  I made a mini duffle bag and it looks pretty manly, if I do say so myself, and just the right size to keep everything together.  My daughter keeps wanting to play with it.












 

The squares I used were 3" to start with, using a 1/4" SA. When I finished the quilt, I found them too big, so went back and sewed inside another 1/4".  So if you plan on using the same measurements for the quilt, then you want them to finish at 2" square.   Of course you can make them any size you want.  It would be super fun with a mini charm pack.




 Reece used poly pellets, but I used rice, since I had a huge bag on hand.  You can fill them with pretty much anything you like.  You could also put a small magnet inside, and then a small cookie sheet with washi tape to make a travel board. 





 
For the tic-tac-toe board I made a mini quilt.   I used some of my charm pack I had laying around.  I cut each 5" piece into 2.5" squares.  I sewed on 1/2" of black fabric to the right hand side of the first two squares in each row (I chain pieced them).  I then sewed on the last square in each row.  With all three rows nicely pressed, I sewed two 1/2" pieces down the middles.  I used some double sided fusible interfacing, black fabric on the back, and black binding.  

The bag is just a simple zipper pouch, that I boxed the corners on, and added some straps made out of webbing.  I nice bright lining makes it easy to find everything.


Both the Paw Patrol and Star Wars fabric were purchased from Funky Monkey Fabrics. 

Sunday, July 24, 2016

Draft Your Own Pattern--Simple A-line Knit Skirt

"You are not wearing that skirt outside!!!!"



I thought I'd have at least until her teen years before I caught myself saying that hahaha.  If your child is anything like mine, they usually have some favorite item of clothing!  As they grow bigger, it's really hard for them to accept the fact that they can no longer wear it.......this skirt is a prime example.  She has loved this skirt for several years, but it is just WAY too short, and that is a hard concept for a kid to understand.  So I decided to make a new version of it, that has a decent length.

She wanted it out of a similar color, and fabric.  This fabric is even softer, and super thin, so will be fine for all types of weather.  Being so thin makes it a bit more difficult to work with, but I have some tips I've come across that really help.  So how did we do this????

I'll show you how easy this is, and you don't need any special tools.  We used paper off our IKEA craft roll.  It's come in handy a number of times,  you can also tape paper together, use some cardboard, freezer paper, or parchment paper, whatever is handy.  


 

I didn't take photos as I made the pattern, but this is what I did.  I laid the skirt along the edge of the paper as neatly as I could.  I then traced around it, starting at the seam on the waistband and down to the hem.  I then traced the band, with seam allowances added for both pieces.  I held the paper up on her, to see where I wanted the finished length.  I then added some seam allowance to do a nice hem. 


Now that I had my two pattern pieces I cut them out of my fabric.  I shortened the width of the  waistband pattern piece by 1/2".  The waistband is folded in half on the top, and then cut on the fold on the side.  You then open it up, and sew the sides together, then fold in half wrong sides together, super simple, and comfy waistband.  I tried the waistband pieces on first before I went any further to make sure it fit nicely.  

 After cutting out my skirt pieces I lightly starched with 'Fresh Press' and ironed on some hem tape.  Then I sewed the side seams, and serged them.  I also serged the bottom hem at this point as well.

I can't tell you how important these two
tips are. Since knit loves to roll at the
edges it can be a pain for seams. If you
use the 'Fresh Press', it keeps the
edges flat and a wee bit stiff, so they're
super easy to sew.

The hem tape adds some weight to the
bottom hem, and also makes it easy to
press the hem. Trying to press super
thin knits without it is very tricky, it just
doesn't want to hold.





It was then time to sew the waistband into the skirt.  Sew them right sides together, pin the seams on each side, and then put one pin in the middle, then slightly stretch the waistband to fit the skirt.  Press the waistband down, and iron your hem in place. Then using a twin needle I did the hem, and top-stitched below the band for a finished look. 

Wait did I say "Twin Needle"????  Um ya!!! I finally conquered my fear of the double needle.  I tried it once before and it was a disaster...not sure what went wrong...but I gave up and put my needle back in it's case, and there she has sat for over a year now.  What changed my mind....well Sherri posted this Thread Riding Hood--Sewing With Knits. They are all great tips, but she made the
double needle look so easy. I asked her about it, and she's like ya it's really great....so I figured I had
to try it again. 

It had been so long since I'd tried last time, and hadn't gone well I decided to look for some online advice.  I found this great video over at So Sew Easy.  (all her tutorials are awesome btw!!!!). How to use a Twin Needle Video Tutorial  She showed the proper way to thread twin needle, and some other tips for using knits like the hem tape. So I gave it another go and WOW it was super easy (I'm rather embarrassed how long I put it off), and it looks so much more professional. I can't wait to play around with some other stitches and thread colors.


If you've been scared of working with knits or a double needle I hope you'll give them both a go.
Make sure to check out both links I posted above and practice.  The great thing about kids clothes is
you don't wast a lot of fabric and time, if you mess up, doll clothes are great for this too....just not Barbie clothes...that's nuts. :D

Please comment below if you have any more tips on drafting or sewing with knits. Have you ever
used a twin needle? Were you happy with the results????  Please share.










Monday, July 18, 2016

Happy Okapi Cup Cozy---Velcro edition



My lovely friend Reece finally came out with a pattern for her famous cup cozies.  I really wanted to try one, but alas I do not have Kam snaps.....I know I just never jumped on the band wagon....trust me I have plenty of other hardware though.

I asked her if I could use reg snaps, and she said "well you can, but then it won't be reversible..."  Doh!!! ok, point taken.  So then I figured Velcro should work.  So I gave it a try, and I'm very happy to report that Velcro works wonderfully.   Here's how I went about it. 

On the holiday cup cozy, I put the Velcro on AFTER I finished stitching, and I used the same placement as in the original pattern, but just on the left hand side, on both sides.

Pros:  You can choose the exact placement of the Velcro to fit a particular cup.

Cons: If using contrasting thread, it can be tricky to not have it show on the other side.  even if you get your tension working perfectly, you will still see the box outline on the other side.  If this doesn't bother you (I think it looks just fine), then no worries.  If your using the same thread for both sides then it's easy peasy.

 As you can see here I marked on the pattern where to put the Velcro.  I crossed out the circles on the right, just ignore them.  All you need is the Velcro on the left on both pieces. 

 This one I sewed the Velcro to each piece first. 



Pro's:  *if using different thread for each piece, it's a lot easier to do it this way, and not worry about your threads bleeding through. 
          *It's easier on your machine then going through multiple layers
*You won't see the stitching on the back side. 



Cons:  It's harder to find the proper placement....I used the same marks as well, but forgot about the seam allowance.   That put the Velcro farther out, making the cup holder larger.  So you might need to adjust it depending on the cup you plan on using. but will have to figure that out prior to sewing it. 



My final tip is when sewing your end closed, make sure to press and topstich from the plain side, not the side with velcro, as this is how it'll sit when in use and will look neater.






Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Bra ????


After discovering my love of lingerie making....I decided I really needed a better way to store my bra's.  I put so much time and work into them I no longer was ok with letting them hang from the door handle, since it'll stretch out the elastic and cup.  Since they're mainly foam, I can't flip one cup inside the other...what to do???

I read the amazing book  The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying up.  And was inspired to give my whole room, closet and drawers a complete overhaul.  I was still left trying to figure out how to store my bra's but decided I wanted to be able to have them handy, and since I'd used such lovely fabrics, I might as well enjoy seeing them.  I looked all over the internet/pinterest for a fabric box to store them in.  Now there are a few places you can order plain ones, but I really wanted to use this lovely fabric I've been hording from Country Clothesline, for 2 years....I figured using it in my closet where I get to see it every day is a great idea.  I plan to make more things for my closet with it.




Here's what I did.  I started with Anna's adorable Berry Basket pattern.  It's a free pattern for a small fabric basket, but it was the depth height I wanted, and I could see how I could save on fabric easily.   I just had to play around with the dimensions. 

If you use a solid piece of fabric for the outside and the lining, it is pretty simple to do.  I of course had to make things difficult, but I really didn't want to waste my lovely fabric for the bottom and sides of the box that I won't see.  If you plan on using my dimensions or your own, read through the tutorial first so get a feel for the pattern, then start drawing up your own.  It would be nice to have a pdf of some different sizes. 


First thing I had to do was decide the dimensions I wanted.  I measured my bras and found that 16" width would fit them nicely.  My shelf isn't very big, so I only wanted it to be about " deep.  I decided on a side wall of 5" so I could easily see what was in there.  As you can see they fit perfectly, so if your planning on doing this for your bra's as well you might as well just use my dimensions.  

So you take your piece of fabric and fold it in half one way, and then in half again.  Measure from the folded sides only.  If you want it to be 16", you then add 10 (5" on each side) and then divide in half since it's folded, so cut the one side at 13".  The other side is (12+10)/2=11, so cut that one 11".  

 






 If your using too solid pieces of fabric then cut off the top corner 5"x5".  Make sure to cut the corner that has no folded sides. in this case that would be the one at the very top.   As you can see I pieced my outside but left the lining whole, I cut it off after I sewed it, but you see the 5 x 5" square easily. 




 

Since I was piecing my outside one, I had to do some more math.  I cut my bottom piece at 16.5" x 12.5" the side pieces 2 at 16.5x5" and 2 at 12 x 5"(don't add the other half inch or you won't get a proper corner. do the longer pieces first and just center the sides in the middle, it'll all work out when you sew them together.). I used some med interfacing on the outer fabric, and then I sewed them together with a 1/4 inch seam, and pressed flat 





After sewing them together, following the Berry Basket tutorial, this is how it should look.  


I wanted a nice soft feel to it, so decided to use some batting.  I'm low on fusible fleece so just used some med loft batting, I attached it with my trusty Elmer's glue stick.  You can skip this step or use your preferred batting.




To add some rigidity I used this cross stitch plastic I got at the dollar store you can use what ever you like.  I also used some pieces of cardboard in the sides, to keep them up since they're quite long.  Since I used the cardboard the binding had to be hand sewn for the most part, so keep that in mind when working on it.  Some heavier interfacing might have been just fine.  It really depends on the side and how supportive you want it to be.  Since mine is sitting on the shelf, it doesn't need to be firm on the bottom, but if you do want to add something there, just do it before you do the top stitching, and you can slide it in the side easily.

Then just add your binding, and your done!!!!!

  Yay it fits perfectly on my self!!!

 I guess I need to make some more bra's now in order to fill it up